UDK 391(=511.1):001.895
DOI: 10.15507/VMU.024.201404.238
ERANSFORMATION OF FOLK FINNO-UGRIC COSTUME IN CONTEMPORARY SOCIETY
N. Ju. Lysova, I. L. Sirotina
Lysova Nadezhda Jur’evna, Associate professor of Culturology, Ethnic and Cultural Studies of Institute of National and Folk Culture, Ogarev Mordovia State University (Russia, Saransk, 68 Bolshevistskaya Str.), Candidate of Sciences (PhD) degree holder in Philosophy, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Sirotina Irina L’vovna, head of Design and Advertising chair of Institute of National and Folk Culture, Ogarev Mordovia State University (Russia, Saransk, 68 Bolshevistskaya Str.), Doctor of Sciences degree holder in Philosophy, This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
This article discusses the main research directions in the study of “symbolic capital” of Finno-Ugric national costume, which reflects the outlook of the ethnic group, plays an important role in the storage and transmission of information in the traditional culture. Object is considered from the standpoint of semiotics and philosophy of culture and appears as a multifunctional phenomenon, defined by functional, spiritual, material manifestations of the Finno-Ugric folk costumes and their importance in the cultural context of modernity. The authors compare general ethnic traditions and regional peculiarities of costumes of Mordvinians, Udmurts, Merya people, Muroma people and others. The paper also discloses the semantic content of a symbolic system of a national costume, much of ideas of which are used in the modern fashion design, analyzes some of the modes of its actualization on the example of the collections created by the staff and students of the Department of Design and Advertising Institute of National Culture. The basis of the imagery of designer collections can place elements of the sign systems of traditional Finno-Ugric clothing or particular cut, decorating, some bright details, embroidery, but the most interesting material is mythological stories, legends, beliefs. The material has the novelty of the approach and perspective on the problem.
Keywords: ethnicity, symbolic capital, national costume, semiotics of the Finno-Ugric costume, ethnic and cultural consciousness, design modern clothes, unique collections of ethnic costume.
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